Wildflower Honey

The Story

Newfoundland sells its honey as wildflower, and on this island that is a decision rather than a default. Canadian law lets a beekeeper print a flower’s name on a jar without proving it. In Europe the same claim requires a pollen count, and more than 45 percent of the grains must come from the flower named. Peter Armitage, who keeps bees on the Bonavista Peninsula and edited the provincial beekeepers’ newsletter, put the island’s rule in writing in 2019: unless you can guarantee to your customers that the honey came from one flower, label it wildflower. He allowed a single exception – the forest cutting blocks around Cormack, where fireweed covers enough ground to make a one-flower crop – and wrote that across most of the province too many flowers bloom together to promise just one.

Then he had his own honey counted. A laboratory at Guenange in France examined a jar from the September 2018 harvest at Lethbridge and Portland and found 48 percent rough-stemmed goldenrod and 35 percent white clover, with raspberry, purple tansy and aster behind them. Forty-eight percent clears the European threshold. The name the laboratory proposed was fleurs sauvages – wildflower – and Armitage published the report on his own website. The same panel set down what was in the jar: light amber, a strong and complex smell, a taste that is complex, faintly fruity and tangy, and crystals that come in coarse, firm grains.

Characteristics

Light yellowish amber, going cloudy as it crystallises. The smell is strong and complex, the taste complex, tangy and faintly fruity. It sets readily and the crystals are coarse and firm, so it spoons rather than pours; warming the jar gently returns it to liquid. The one Newfoundland honey to have been analysed carried 16.9 percent moisture, comfortably under the 20 percent at which honey starts to ferment, so a jar keeps. Its hydroxymethylfurfural – the compound that rises when honey is heated – measured 0.9 milligrams per kilogram against a European ceiling of 40.

Click to Display — The Details: sensory profile, and its regional identity

Bee Species:

Western honey bee, Apis mellifera. The island’s stock is a closed population: honey bees reached Newfoundland only around 1929, and since 1980 the province has banned imports, so no new bees have arrived legally in more than forty years. The varroa mite, tracheal mite, small hive beetle and greater wax moth have never established here, and the beekeepers’ association states the consequence plainly – its bees “do not require regular use of chemical miticides,” and Newfoundland honey “is not exposed to medications at this time.” Colonies are wintered on 100 to 120 pounds of their own honey.

Color:

Light yellowish amber, going cloudy as it crystallises.

Flavor Profile:

Complex, tangy, faintly fruity.

Tasting Notes:

The crystals are coarse and firm rather than smooth, so a spoonful lifts in pieces rather than running off. Peter Wilkins, who distils Newfoundland honey into the Newfoundland Distillery’s aquavit, describes what it brings as roundness and “a little hint of sweetness, but not that normal sweetness you get with mead or other honeys.” Four Cousins describes its own 2024 crop as light and slightly tangy, with hints of white clover, fireweed and goldenrod from the country around its apiaries.

Aroma:

Strong and complex.

Defining Compounds:

Glucose is the sugar that comes out of solution first, and the tested jar carried 35.5 percent of it against 40.6 percent fructose – a high glucose share, and consistent with the coarse, firm set the same laboratory recorded.

Two other figures bear on how the honey is classified rather than how it tastes. Electrical conductivity of 607 microsiemens per centimetre sits below the 800 that marks a honeydew honey, confirming a nectar honey. Hydroxymethylfurfural below the limit of detection, with diastase at 28 Schade units, indicates honey that has not been heated: warming drives that compound up and the enzyme down. All of these are from single samples of one producer’s crop.

Forage Origin:

Nectar, and on the evidence of the only Newfoundland honey yet analysed, nectar alone – the tested jar carried no honeydew markers at all.

The season starts late. Bees take pollen from alder and pussy willow catkins through April and May, and both pollen and nectar from red and mountain maple, but the beekeepers’ association records that the nectar flow itself does not begin until the last week of May, with the dandelion. White clover follows as the next important plant, then fireweed, then goldenrod. Behind those come coltsfoot, chuckley-pears, cow vetch, bull thistle, northern bush honeysuckle, elderberry, meadowsweet and bog aster, which closes the year in September.

The tested jar shows what that sequence puts in a pound: 48 percent rough-stemmed goldenrod pollen, 35 percent white clover, then raspberry, purple tansy and aster. Purple tansy is sown rather than wild – Four Cousins grows it beside its hives – so a Newfoundland jar can carry a planted flower alongside whatever the barrens offered. Fireweed shows at under 3 percent, though pollen counts understate it: the plant gives more nectar than its share of the grains suggests.

Pairings:

Because it sets coarse and firm, it spreads more readily than it pours. Island retailers suggest it on toast and stirred into tea, and the pairing an independent visitor singled out at the Beestro in Little Rapids was the plainest one on the table: fresh bread, a small cheese selection, and a generous portion of the farm’s own honey.

The same kitchen serves a Humber Valley salad built on nut honey, a seafood chowder finished with honey maple butter, and a honey maple creme brulee. In a glass, the Newfoundland Distillery Company’s Goldrush mixes honey syrup – equal parts honey and water – with its aquavit, lemon juice, mint and a cinnamon stick.

Origin Story

Newfoundland had no honey for most of its recorded history. D.W. Prowse’s History of Newfoundland, published in 1896 and still the island’s standard account, runs to six hundred and sixty-seven pages and makes no mention of honey bees; the sweetener throughout is molasses, landed off the salt-fish trade.

Bees are first recorded here around 1929, at Harbour Grace on Conception Bay – three centuries after they reached the mainland, where they arrived in 1622. For decades what followed was closer to restocking than to beekeeping: colonies ordered by mail, worked through a summer, and lost over the winter. The island’s present stock traces largely to one queen breeder, Wally Skinner of Pasadena, inducted into the Atlantic Agricultural Hall of Fame at eighty-two.

In 1980 the province closed the border to imported bees. The timing turned out to matter more than the reason: varroa mite reached Canada nine years later and has never crossed to the island, so a quarantine measure became the condition the whole industry now rests on.

Growth came late and fast. In 2010 about six beekeepers kept 116 colonies. By 2019 the association counted over a hundred beekeepers and roughly 800 colonies; by 2025 the province listed twenty commercial operations.

Cultural Context

The island’s sweet tradition is molasses. Toutons come with butter and molasses, or with coady, the boiled molasses sauce; the heritage berry pastry is the lassie tart, partridgeberry jam set in a molasses crust, recorded by Memorial University’s folklore archive at Joe Batt’s Arm on Fogo Island. Molasses arrived on the salt-fish trade and has held the breakfast plate for centuries.

Honey came in by another door, and recently. Most Newfoundlanders meet it through makers rather than through a family recipe. The Newfoundland Distillery Company puts honey from Grand Falls-Windsor into its aquavit alongside Cormack barley and Mount Scio savoury, and into its chaga rum and rhubarb vodka. Merfolk Mead, the province’s first commercial meadery, took gold at the 2025 All Canadian Wine Championships with a blueberry mead carrying Port Blandford honey beside mainland wildflower. Quidi Vidi brews a honey brown ale. At Little Rapids, the Mi’kmaw-owned Pollen Nation Farm serves its own honey at a table it calls the Beestro.

Where honey has reached daily life it has done so quietly. At Port Blandford the Bearded Beekeeper keeps an honour stand called Garfield’s Honesty Pantry, named for a friend who died – jars on a shelf, cash in a box. Each June the beekeepers’ association brings observation hives to the Botanical Garden in St. John’s for a week, free to anyone who walks in.

Harvest & Forage

The forage season runs six months at most, and the honey is made in two of them. Beekeepers aim to have colonies at full size by the first of July, and the association records that most of the crop is gathered through July and August. The honey boxes come off the hives around the first week of September and the bees are fed sugar syrup straight afterwards – the two are kept deliberately apart, because as one beekeeper put it, honey made on syrup “will not taste like meadow flowers.”

What is left behind matters more here than what is taken. Best practice is to winter a colony on 100 to 120 pounds of its own honey, and in the year the association surveyed its members, only 27 percent harvested any honey at all; the rest left it for winter or for spring feeding. One beekeeper reporting a 150-pound colony, with others at 180 to 200, added that he could have taken more and chose not to.

Composition shifts by year and by place. Armitage notes the pollen content varies with climate and other conditions; in 2024 central Newfoundland took a good crop while a dry summer trimmed the west coast. Hives travel too – cranberry, not blueberry, is the province’s main pollinated crop, and colonies go out to the bogs in early to mid summer. Honey is not taken above 20 percent moisture, the point at which it starts to ferment; the tested jar came in at 16.9.

Beekeeping Context

Beekeeping here is small and almost entirely untreated. The province counts about twenty commercial operations – commercial meaning more than twenty hives – among something over a hundred beekeepers, and the association’s guidance for backyard apiaries recommends no more than twenty hives in a yard, a three-metre setback, and never fewer than two colonies.

Because the mites are absent, the working year has no treatment calendar in it. What stands in its place is watchfulness. Hive registration has been mandatory since 2020, and under the association’s varroa action plan sentinel apiaries are monitored where an incursion would most likely arrive: the ferry terminal at Port aux Basques and the airport at St. John’s.

Stock is raised on the island because it cannot be brought in. Queens and nucleus colonies are bred locally – one Placentia Bay farm ran a three-year project on the instrumental insemination of queens – and the genetics trace back through a small number of breeders.

Several apiaries rent their hives out. The Bearded Beekeeper places a colony on a customer’s property for the summer, collects it in September and shares the honey; Adelaide’s runs an adopt-a-hive scheme. Visitors are put into a suit and walked to a working hive at Cormack, at Little Rapids and in the Goulds.

Named Producers

  • Adelaide’s Newfoundland Honey – 274 Back Line, Goulds, St. John’s. Brenda and Paul Dinn; the first registered apiary in St. John’s, working ground that went back to wildflowers and fireweed after the family stopped farming it. Raw wildflower alongside the island’s only fireweed crop, and a ten-acre reserve where the Honey Bee Hike walks visitors into a working hive. Farm Guide entry – farm gate September until sold out, Saturdays 9 to 4.
  • Cormack Bee Company – 174 Veterans Drive, Cormack, off the Viking Trail towards Gros Morne. Lee Harvey and Dawn Stack, who took their first colony in 2017 to pollinate their raspberries. Newfoundland Wildflower Honey from $10 in 150, 250 and 500 gram jars and a squeeze bottle, plus nine infused honeys and six honey butters; the Buzzy Bee Craft Shop opens 1 June.
  • Four Cousins Honey – Portland and Lethbridge, Bonavista Peninsula. Peter Armitage, who wrote the province’s honey-labelling guidance and had his own crop analysed twice. Raw unpasteurized wildflower honey, 250 g $13, sold at Birdie on Water Street in St. John’s and through Three Mile Ridge at the Clarenville market.
  • Tuck’s Bee Better Farm – 267 Grenfell Heights, Grand Falls-Windsor, central Newfoundland. Trevor Tuck; the island’s largest apiary and the only honey farm with a store and cafe attached. Honey, raw honey comb, bee pollen, hot honey, honey butter, berry sauces and honey cranberry juice, pressed and made on site. Visitors are invited to step up to the observation hive and dip a popsicle stick straight into the comb.
  • Pollen Nation Farm – 32 Bonnell Drive, Little Rapids, Humber Valley. Amanda Oake and chef Nathan Hornidge; Mi’kmaw-owned, and the only place in the province where the honey is the subject of a meal rather than an ingredient in one. Raw unpasteurized forest honey, harvested once a year, with bee tours, honey tastings and the Beestro table.
  • Baccalieu Trail Honey Bees – Carbonear, Avalon. Kimberly Dooley, working several apiaries along the Baccalieu Trail. Honey, cut comb and chunk honey, described by the producer as 100 percent raw, coarse-filtered and never heated; sells at the St. John’s Farmers’ Market.
  • Bee MA Honey Apiary – Conception Bay South, Avalon. Alex Martin. Raw honey in one-pound and half-pound jars, with limited batches of honeycomb and an infused line built on small-batch creamed honey.

Festivals and Fairs

  • Newfoundland Honey Bee Week – late June, Memorial University Botanical Garden, St. John’s. The beekeepers’ association takes over the Garden’s field centre for a week with demonstration and observation hives, and the Garden adds bee specimens under a microscope. Free to the public; garden admission is charged only for the grounds and trails.